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A History Lovers Guide to Verona 
 
by Mark R. Whittington August 03, 2005

In Fair Verona where we lay our scene is how Shakespeare begins his classic play of the two star crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet. And Verona has been living on the reputation ever since. One cannot go to Verona without stumbling over artifacts (or supposed artifacts) of the story. Yet, Verona is more than just the venue of a teenaged romance gone very wrong.

In the sixth century BC the region of Veneto was occupied by the Euganei and the Veneti. The region was conquered by the Romans by the third century BC. By 89 BC, the people in Verona were give full Roman citizenship. The famous Poet Catullus came to Rome from Verona. In 312 A.D. Pompeianus, General of Maxentius was defeated and killed near Verona by Constantine. The city became Christian in the 4th century. It became the beloved city of Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoth kingdom in the middle of the 5th century, then a Longobardic dukedom and the seat of Pipin, King of Italy under the Carolingian Empire. In the 11th century Verona was joined to the Mark of Bavaria and in 1136 it became a municipality. Having come under the power of Ezzelino da Romano, it came under the dominion of the Scaliger family, whose rule lasted from 1277 until 1387, when it fell into the hands of the Viscontis.

According to the legend, popularized by Shakespeare three centuries later, Romeo Montecchi or Montague and Juliet Capuleti meet and die in about the year 1302. The Montecchi were Guelphs who supported the Pope; the Capuleti were Ghibellines who supported the Holy Roman Emperor. In 1405 Verona voluntarily offered itself to the Venetians, under whose government it remained until 1796, when the Republic of Venice was invaded by Napoleon. After the short-lived rule of the Kingdom of Italy Verona was occupied by the Austrians in 1814 and returned to the dominion of Italy in 1866.

Verona was damaged during the fighting between Austria and Italy during the First World War. During the Second World War, the city was heavily bombed and the bridges destroyed by the Germans to impede the allied advance. Today, Verona is an industrial town with a population of over 300,000.

The Roman Arena

The Roman amphitheater, the Arena of Verona is one of the greatest and most prestigious archeological monuments in Europe. It is the third largest arena of its kind, with a seating capacity of twenty thousand. It was built in the first century A.C. during the last years of the emperor Augustus. From the very beginning of its existence, the Arena of Verona was a powerful and suggestive place of entertainment, as a venue for gladiatorial combats and other spectacles. Today the arena is used for plays, ballets, and operas.

Piazza della Erbe

This is one of the most historic and picturesque squares in Italy. In antiquity, it served as a Roman forum. Today, it contains many historic buildings, sculptures with a popular and colorful market overflowing with fresh fruits and vegetables. Every direction one looks, history crowds in on you - the 15th century Colonna Antica, the 14th century Capitello, the 14th century Madonna Verona fountain, and the Gardello Tower.

Juliet’s House

One cannot visit Verona and not visit Juliet's House and Balcony, as touristy as the place may be. It is only a few minutes from Piazza dell'Erbe, and is best visited early in the morning, before swamped with tour groups. Follow the signs to the small courtyard at 27 Via Capello. There one will see a bronze statue of Juilet and the balcony supposedly immortalized by Shakespeare. On the rare times when it is empty, the courtyard has a romantic air, with leafy vines overgrowing the attractive graffiti-bedecked walls. Visiting the courtyard is free, but there is an entrance fee to the building, which has a small museum and gift shop, though there are better ones elsewhere in the city.

La Casa di Giulietta was an inn owned by the Capuletti family. The house dates back to the 13th century and has a brick façade with large windows. It has been given its official title because Verona began to take advantage of tourism in the early 20th Century. The city further capitalized on the story by arbitrarily placing Juliet's tomb in the crypt of San Francesco al Corso. Romeo's house is supposedly on the Via della Arche Scaligeri.

Is this really the place where Romeo first declared his star crossed love for the fair Juliet? One might have one’s doubts, but standing in the courtyard, looking up at the balcony, it is a romantic thing to imagine.

Church of San Francisco al Corso

It is said that the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet has its beginning and end in this church. Here, it is said, the two star crossed lovers were married. Here, in the cloisters it is said, lays Juliet’s tomb.

Casa di Romeo

The Casa di Romeo is a plain, 13th Century house which tradition says that the dwelling belonged to the Montecchi, or Montagues, though some scholars say that the house actually belonged to some Cagnolo Nogarola. The building is not particularly impressive but is one of the oldest in Verona. The façade is brick and still has remains of the original battlements. One would easily miss the place without the memorial plaque.

Castelvecchio

The Castelvecchio or the Old Castle is a fairy-tale place of brick towers and turrets, protecting the bridge behind it. It was commissioned in 1354 by the Scaligeri warlord Cangrande II to serve the dual role of residential palace and military stronghold. It survived centuries of occupation, first by the Visconti family, then the Serene Republic of Venice, and then Napoléon. It was destroyed by the Germans during World War II bombing. Its restoration was started in 1958 by the acclaimed Venetian architect Carlos Scarpa, and it reopened in 1964. It is now a fascinating museum with some 400 works of art.

The ground-floor rooms, displaying statues and carvings of the Middle Ages, lead to a labyrinth of alleyways, vaulted halls, multileveled floors, and stairs, all as architecturally fascinating as the Venetian masterworks from the 14th to 18th centuries. Most interesting are those works by Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Veronese, Bellini, and the Verona-born Pisanello. Don't miss the large courtyard with the equestrian statue of the warlord Cangrande I with a peculiar dragon's head affixed to his back (actually his armor's helmet, removed from his head and resting behind him.

Piazza dei Signoria

Situated behind the busy Piazza Erbe, this central square is dominated by a statue of Dante made in 1865. Its perimeter is surrounded by historical buildings which accentuate the important role the place has played in the city's political life. On the piazza we find the Palazzo del Comune, the Palazzo della Prefettura, the Palazzo del Capitanio, the Loggia del Consiglio and the Domus Nova. The buildings are joined with elegant arches, mostly dating from the 14th century. There are wide ranges of styles, which are nevertheless characterized by great harmony.

Visiting Verona

Verona has a small airport, but is best accessed by rail or road from other cities in Italy. Verona is small enough to walk around in, especially in the Roman center of town. Bicycling is another option that is viable.


 




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