The glory that was Greece can be seen on a visit to Athens, where democracy was born and from which much of the culture and thought of Western Civilization was created.
The site of the Akropolis was very likely settled by
Neolithic people thousands of years ago. Athens
became the center of a powerful kingdom during Greece’s
Mycenaean period of about 1400 to 1100 BC. Less is known about the city during Greece’s
Dark Age, but Athens became a
cultural center by about the year 800 BC. By 510 BC, Athens
shook off the rule of tyrants and became one of the first democracies. Athens
was one of the leaders in the war against Persia,
when an Athenian Army defeated the Persians at Marathon
in 490 and an Athenian led fleet beat a Persian armada in the straits of Salamis
in 480. Subsequently, Athens
enjoyed a golden age when great monuments were built on the Akropolis and poets
and playwrights like Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides and sculptors like
Pheidias and Myron flourished.
Between 431 and 404 BC, Athens
fought a brutal war with its rival city, Sparta.
Athens was eventually defeated and
slid from its former glory. Even so, great Athenian philosophers such as
Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle contributed much to human understanding.
Athens remained
a center of culture and learning under Roman and Byzantine rule. After 1200 AD,
the city changed hands several times between French, Catalans, Florentines, and
Venetians. The Ottoman Empire conquered Greece
by about 1453 and ruled for almost four hundred years. Athens
was liberated during the Greek War of Independence in 1821-29 during which the
city changed hands several times. Athens
became the capital of the newly independent Kingdom
of Greece in 1834.
In modern times, Athens
has become the center of an increasingly prosperous society, with modernization
proceeding apace. But the city retains many monuments of its former glory.
The Akropolis
The Akropolis crowns a huge rocky plateau that dominates the
city of Athens and has been its
symbol since ancient times. At the height of the golden age of Athens,
the Akropolis was crowned with magnificent temples, magnificently colored and
gilded, and bronze and marble statues. The place is in ruins now, but is not
less awe inspiring.
The center of the Akropolis is the Parthenon, the ruins
of the largest Doric style temple ever
built in ancient Greece.
It used to house a gigantic statue of the goddess Athena, to whom the Parthenon
was dedicated to. The temple also was the treasure house of tribute money
collected from throughout Athens’
Greek client states.
Next to the Parthenon is the Erechtheion, immediately recognizable for its
much-photographed Caryatids, the six maidens who take the place of columns. The
Acropolis Museum
houses a collection of sculptures and reliefs from the site.
The Agora
The Agora was the Athenian marketplace and was the center of
social, economic, and political life. Here Socrates disputed philosophy with
anyone who dared to argue with him. Here St. Paul
preached the new faith of Christianity.
The highlights of a visit to the Agora include the newly
reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, where at one time expensive shops attracted well
heeled Athenians, the nearby Agora Museum, where there is a model of the
original Agora as well as artifacts from the site, the Temple of Hephaestus,
the best preserved Doric temple in Greece, the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus
Eleutherios, where Socrates could be found many days during the golden age of
Athens, and the 11th Century Church of the Holy Apostles, with its
Byzantine mosaics.
The Benaki Museum
Founded in 1931, it is the oldest museum in Greece
and one of the best. It’s collection includes Bronze Age finds from Mycenae
and Thessaly, and ecclesiastical furniture brought from Asia
Minor by refugees. There are nearly 20,000 items on display,
arranged on four levels in chronological order ranging from prehistory to the
founding of the modern Greek state. The collection includes ancient pottery,
Karaghiozi shadow puppets, and a stunning array of costumes, jewelry, textiles,
and paintings, including early works by El Greco.
National Archeological Museum
This museum has the world's best collection of Greek antiquities. The Hall
of Mycenaean Antiquities is filled with gleaming gold. The center of attraction
is the Mask of Agamemnon. Other works include a marble statue from Delos of
Aphrodite with Pan and Eros circa 100BC, and a bronze statue believed to be
Poseidon or Zeus dated to 460BC. There is also an amusing sculpture of
Aphrodite raising her sandal to ward off the frisky Pan. The collection also
includes archaic, classical, late classical, Hellenistic and Roman period
sculpture, bronze and pottery.
Roman Agora
The Roman Agora is a partly excavated site and was the
center of Athenian life during the rule of the Roman Empire.
To the casual eye the place looks like a jumble of ruined stone, but is still
much to see for those with the patience to look. The entrance to the Roman
Agora is through the Gate of Athena Archegetis, flanked by four Doric columns.
To the right of the entrance are foundations of a 1st-century public latrine,
and in the southeast area are the foundations of a propylon and a row of shops.
The centerpiece of the Roman Agora is the octagonal Tower of the Winds. The
tower served as a sundial, weather vane, water clock and compass. Each side of
the tower represented a point on the compass and has a relief of a figure
representing the wind associated from that point. The weather vane disappeared
long ago. It was in the form of a bronze Triton that revolved upon the top of
the tower.
The Keramikos
The Keremikos served as the city’s cemetery from the 12th
Century BC to Roman times. Remains still stand of the city walls built in the 5th
Century BC. One can see the Sacred Gate, where pilgrims passed during the
annual Eleusian Procession and the Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city.
The Dipylon Gate was also a prime location of prostitutes plying their trade to
weary travelers. The Street of Tombs
consists of an astonishing array of funerary monuments with bas-reliefs calling
for a close look. Nearby is the the Oberlaender Museum, displaying stelae and sculpture from
the site, as well as an impressive collection of vases and terracotta
figurines.
The Theater of Dionysos
During the golden age of Athens,
plays by Aeschylus, Sophocles and Aristophanes were commissioned for the
Festival of Great Dionysia and were performed here. The theater, on the Acropolis'
southeastern slope, was constructed in stone and marble by between 342 and
326BC. The auditorium could seat 17,000; of an original 64 tiers of seats,
about 20 tiers still survive. Note the 2nd-century reliefs at the rear of the
stage depicting the exploits of the god Dionysos.
Visiting Athens
Athens has a
state of the art air port, with its own museum. There is also a well run bus
and train system and ferries from the Greek islands and Italy.
Athens has a modern metro system
which, along with the buses and trolleys, can speed one through the aggravating
Athenian traffic. Taxi cabs are cheap, but difficult to hail.